Eine Anleitung zum Bremsunterhalt beim L251

[MorgenTee]

Hi bluedog,

vielen Dank für die Antwort! Die Bremsbeläge habe ich zusammen mit den Scheiben gekauft, von daher hoffe ich, dass der (ebay) Händler mir auch was passendes zusammengestellt hat. Von den Maßen her scheinen die genau so zu sein wie die originale. Diese haben allerdings nach fast 10 Jahren schon eine Einheit gebildet mit dem Bremssattelträger (oder wie das heißt). Ich nahm an, dass das so nicht sein sollte und das Rost entfernen für gleitende Bremsbeläge sorgen würde. Wenn es bei Dir jedoch auch so war, dass die inneren Beläge fest saßen, dann habe ich die Wirkweise der Bremse irgendwie noch nicht hundertprozentig verstanden. Erinnert sich vielleicht noch jemand, ob sich die inneren Beläge per Hand bewegen lassen sollten?

Zur Not werde ich es einfach mal testen, was die Bremse macht, wenn die Klötze fest sind bevor ich anfange, etwas abzuschleifen.

[bluedog]

Moment mal, die Innenseite ist doch da, wo der Bremskolben sitzt? Jedenfalls hatte ich das so im Kopf...

Logischerweise müsste sich da der Belag bewegen lassen, wenn auch nur um einen mm oder so... Aussen darf er fest in die Halterung...

Allerdings darf er auch nicht so viel Spiel haben, dass er verkantet... aber setz das mal zusammen und guck, obs tut... nochmal auseinandernehmen sollte dann ja im Bedarfsfall leichter gehen, da nichts angerostet.

[terios]

Good topic if only I could understand what is written : )

Last month I have changed the brakes pads of the Cuore L251 and I'm a bit confused about the two bolts of the calliper. Which one should be in the top position? And which one should be greased?

P.S. I suspected the brakes because of over heating of the right (passenger) trim comparing to the left one. Now changed and all is OK, they both overheat, no no I'm kidding, they just become normally and equally hot. The old brakes were irregularly wearied; may be because of bad quality or not greased bolts?

Next time, I intend to change the shoes of the rear drums. And by the way, change the braking fluid because I suppose it had never been done before.

Any topic w/ pictures about this?

[bluedog]

The two caliper bolts both shall be greased. The one with the ring of synthetical rubber on sits on the top

That the brakes are irregularly worn is, one can say, more or less normal at this model. At least it is a common and well known problem.

The reason for that is not undoubtedly determined. Generally, that occurrs due to corosion, which blocks the bolts. One can only control that regularly.

To much grease has yet proven to be bad as well, because then the bolts cannot move far enough into the socket.

rear drums & brake fluid change:

Sorry, I don't have any pictures to that. I suggest, you ask google and youtube, because the process of changing brake fluid is basically the same with any car. If you do not have special equipment, you will need assistance from a second person, who has to manipulate the brake pedal onto command. So maybe, ask your sister for some assistance. It's her car.

What ever you do when working on brakes, especially brake fluid, notice and don't ever forget, that the car passengers lives, as well as that of other people, depends on it. So do not make any mistakes please. Be responsible and act according to that.

[terios]

As usual, thanks bluedog for your detailed reply.

I want to change the brake fluid from Dot3 to Dot4. Generally, it's accepted, but I don't know if the manufacturer says something about this?

[bluedog]

I do not know anything about that neiter. But I can translate that question, because its interesting.

Auf Deutsch:

terios hat die Frage aufgeworfen, ob es beim Wechsel der Bremsflüssigkeit von DOT 3 auf DOT4 etwas zu beachten gibt, speziell, ob sich Daihatsu mal dazu geäussert hat.

Mithilfe erbeten.

[Daiminator]

Kann nur eine eigene Erfahrung nennen: Beim L501 steht auch dick "DOT 3" auf dem Deckel, habe DOT4 verwendet, weils einfach wegen allen anderen Autos da war. Läuft seit ca. 2 Jahren ohne Probleme.


I do not know what Daihatsu sais about ist, i can only tell you my own experience:
I changed from DOT 3 to DOT 4 two year ago (the car is a Cuore L501, the pre-pre-model to the L251, where it also sais "use DOT 3" on the cover of the brake fluide reservoir), no problems so far :)

[terios]

Thanks for the translations and the experience feedback, I'm quite confident now.

As far as I know, DOT3 is dedicated for normal use of the car. For severe conditions as fast driving, irregular roads, much slopes... DOT4 is more suitable because of high ebullition point. On the other side, DOT4 needs to be changed nearly twice often than DOT3.

On my Terios J2 the book recommends both DO3 and 4. But on the brake fluid cap it is written DOT3. it means that the manufacturer just provide the car with minimum requirement for normal use.

Well, I'll change it and see.

[Daiminator]

I think, all you said i right, but one thing is missng:
As far as i known, the main issue with DOT 4 is, that it's more agressive. So rubber-seelings in "DOT 3 only" Systems mights be demaged. Thats just what i read


Terios schrieb, DOT 4 hat höheren Siedepunkt, aber ist hygroskopischer und muss deshalb öfters gewechselt werden.
Ich habe ergänzt: Ich habe gelesen, dass DOT 4 agressiver zu Dichtungen ist, weshalb "nur DOT 3" Systeme nicht mit DOT 4 befüllt werden sollten. Aber wie gesagt, das ist nur was ich irgendwo mal gelesen habe.

[terios]

Zitat von Daiminator

I think, all you said i right, but one thing is missng:
As far as i known, the main issue with DOT 4 is, that it's more agressive. So rubber-seelings in "DOT 3 only" Systems mights be demaged. Thats just what i read

From my readings, we can put DOT4 where it is requested to put DOT3, but not the reverse, because the braking system may be engineered to work at high temperatures.

I think you are talking about DOT5, which is different.