Engine mounts L701
 

Hello when i accelarate i feel the engine goes up.
When i select R in transmission i have more vibration than D.
Which engine mount to replace?
The front one?

Mostly the front one is damaged (90%). Most of the front ones have fractures. Nevertheless: Check also the back one.

Ok Thanks.
Where i can fount the OEM part number of a spare parts for my VIN car number?

For example i have cuore 1000cc 1999mod auto
What oem code has the rear mount?

Which one is for my car cuore L701 automatic transmission?
12306-97203 or 12306-97210?

We use "key numbers". If you scan your registration and show it to us, we can show you which numbers represent your vehicle. For example, the numbers representing mine are 7111 355. Most, if not all, Daihatsus have the same first numbers (7111). The second one defines your exact series

I just found out that your registry numbers possibly will not coincide with those issued for Germany. I don't know if there is a European Union code for these. You can try using your vehicle identification number.
The following link explains how this system functions for German registry:

https://www.kfzteile24.de/magazin/ra...hsn-tsn-finden

The first four numbers only indicate the manufacturer. The first 3 numbers of the second set indicate the vehicle model (Cuore, MOVE, Sirion etc...). The last 5 numbers of that row will indicate option details of which your automatic transmission should be included:

https://www.kfzteile24.de/cms/images...zeugschein.png

If this helps
 

I just found this vehicle identification decoder. The results seem accurate:

http://vin-decoder.lv/JDAL601S000006679

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=jdal601s000006679&t=h_&ia=web

My vin number is
JDAL701S001020533
L701/GHDFW

Someone told me that the rear engine mount is diferent in manual than in auto.

12305-97210 Front
12306-97215 Rear

Thanks.Where i can found it to buy the rear one in no name imitation ?
The original cost 260euro.
I search on ebay and i cant find.
Thanks.

Depending on the design, it would be possible to repair the original mount. Do you have a photograph of an original example?

No i havent.Its in my car.
I want to find one first and then to change it.

I can found 1230697210 mount ,i think its from manual,but its different from the manual and auto?

yes, its from manual and yes, its different

Here, you can download free pdfs: https://car-service-manuals.com/cata...uore-mira-l701

If the damaged mount resembles this type, it is possible to have it re-manufactured:

http://www.daihatsu-forum.de/vbullet...1&d=1580900225

Ok.Thanks a lot for your advice.
My problem is when i select R from stop i have vibration inside my car and the engive vibrates.
When i select D the vibration is less than R and when in Di puch the accelarator i feel the car upwards.
I thing is the mounts.
I have 170.000km and it has original mounts.

If there is something wrong with the torque converter, similar issues can happen.
My L701 Auto with 70000 km was also vibrating on a dead stop in gear. I didn't care as it shifted well. It was worse with a very hot engine.

As my wife wanted something with 4 doors and A/C we sold it after 2 years.
The buyer blew the engine at 148000 km on the motorway. It was some kind of oil pressure pump issue. Thus, the problem was never properly diagnosed.

Hello i changed the front and left mounts but the rear aluminium one how to change it?
I see that is very difficult.
Any advice please

Ι change the 3 mounts and the vibration now is in dashbord and in traffic lights is terrible.What to do now?

I changed the 3 mounts to stop vibrations and now in idle i have vibration inside a car.What to do?

Is normal.
Or Buy a BMW.:grinsevi:

I select N in idle and the vibration disappears.

That was also normal in my L701 Automatic when it was hot. This is why I also have a BMW N55 (but it's direct injection which clogs up valves an consumes oil), but make sure to buy a 6 cylinder, 4 and 3 is not so calm.

B58 is a very good engine.

If i increase the throttle in idle for 850rpm to 1100rpm its better?
I see that in drive dont have vibration only in idle.

That's correct. You may give it a shot and change the ATF if you haven't done so. But no guarantee that it will go away. Most likely it is a bit worn torque converter id it's not the engine mounts themselves. The gearbox still may work for 100 of thousands km without further trouble.

If you haven't yet changed the transmission oil and replaced the filter, I wouldn't do anything else, until this has been done.
You might have to deal with the vehicle staying parked, until you become the replacement filter and gasket. If you have another car available for daily driving, I would remove the filter and bring it to either a Toyota, Subaru or former Daihatsu dealer. This gearbox was likely used by Suzuki, Mitsubishi and Nissan also. Aisan built automatic transmissions for all Japanese manufacturers. There would be no reason for producing a different filter according to automobile brand. This would be unnecessarily expensive for all brands to do. I would try all aforementioned garages, parts stores and dealerships, until you become this item. Here in Germany, some shop clerks will bring a filter from the shelf for comparisson. Others are lazy and will therefore only serve you when you present a vehicle number, despite the filter itself being numbered.
I'm due myself for a filter repülacement. If you remove your filter and oil pan and then fotograph them, I could then compare both with mine. If they match, I can then find you a source for yours.
The torque converter is a rather simple device. It's therefore unlikely that it has suffered damage and more likely that it isn't becoming enough oil, because of a restricted filter

Before i replace the mount no vibration in idle posision only in R.Now with new 3 mounts and new auto transmittion oil i have vibrations in idle.
I think my auto transmittion its ok.

Vibration in Idle is completely normal with this type of Car, the construction of it and the type of transmission. At 850rpm, you'd also have vibration in that car if it had a manual transmission.


If you put it in D or R, the engine has to work against the troque converter inside the transmission, and it is clear, that this ends up in some vibration. As soon as you then release the brakes, it starts rollling and vibration gets less then.


This vibrations are normal. It is a three-cylindred engine in a small, lightweight car. If it was 200kg heavier constructed, you'd have less vibration. But then it'd consume more fuel and thus be less attractive to own.


The vibration in D and R comes from the type of Transmission. In a manual transmission, when in neutral or the clutch pedal is depressed, there is no connection at all between engine and Transmission/wheels. Therefore there is little or no vibration.


That corresponds to N in your automatic transmission. No Vibration in N idle. Because the Engine is not connected to the rest of the drivetrain.


In any position other than P or N, the engine is connected to the transmission and drives the engine-sided part of the torque converter. Since the brakes are not released and therefore the car is held stationary, that causes vibration, due to the Engine working against the stationary-held turbine wheel inside the torque converter. If the brakes are then released, that turbine wheel (which is via Planetary gearsets connected to the wheels) is free to turn. Vibration stops, as the car starts rolling.


That is the reason for the vibration in D or R idle.


If you want it vibration-free, drive electric. There is then no sort of Clutch, and no combustion engine too to cause vibration. And, btw. an electric car doesn't know a state called idle neither.


Second best: Drive a heavier and more modern car. Some automatic gearboxes disconnect themselves (nothing other than to switch from D to N as long as no engine work is required, internally, while the Gear lever is left in D) when idling. And: Due to heavier, more massive construction of the car body itself, it takes less vibration over to caus resonances. But: It will cost more money and fuel. See if you find it worth that...

He doesen't have vibration in D. Only in R. He should either have vibration in both selections or none at all in both

I forgot:


Sure it minimises vibration to increase Idle. But that also causes more fuel consumption.
Apart from that, the Engine Control unit should increase idle automatically as soon as there is a gear lever position other than P or N selected. Of course the resistance of the transmission with still standing vehicle works against that, so the idle rpm is lowered again, and you might not notice the so called fast-idle of the engine.


Simply, the engine has to work more in idle if in any drive-position with brakes engaged, than in N or P. As the wheels do not turn and thus the force of the fast-idling engine is dissipated in the torque converter in the forms of heat and, smaller part, mechanical energy, that causes vibration. And since the car body is lightweight, that causes a resonance and lets you feel those vibration quite closely.


The engine mount dampers are vibration blockers to the engines vibration (more or less effective). When that engine is connected to the transmission, there is an other path opened for those vibrations via transmission mounts. And, the engine load is increased, as explained above... Somewhere, there is a limit to the vibration dampers... and they are not getting more effective as the system is ageing and gets some thear and wear.

Thanks alot for your explanation.
Its ok in traffic light to select N? because i dont have vibrations?

Don't do it all the time just for a few seconds. But if you have to wait 10 seconds or longer, why not. But don't forget to put it back into D BEFORE pushing the gas.

The transmission won't like to be shifted in D in higher revs...

You can shift to N if you like. The users manual does not recommend that. The exception is when you stop for a longer time.


Als long as I had an L251 automatic, I did not shift it to N when waiting at a traffic light.


But I did something better most of the time: When I wanted to shift to N I did that and then stopped the engine to save fuel and my nerves with it. With a little practise, you will be very fast in restarting the engine.


gato311 said the most important. When shifting back to D, make sure the engine is idling. To shift from N to D (or R) while the engine is more than idling, is one of the fastest and most efficient ways to ruin the Transmission, and one of the very few ways to kill the automatic transmission. They call that power shifting and it is sometimes (or was) considdered as cool among the young guys in the us. Its nothing but burning money as fast as possible.


The second way to ruin an automatic transmission of the type used by Daihatsu very quickly, is to change driving direction while the car is not stopped yet. That is, shift from D to R (of oposite) at a speed above 0.

Ι think or i used do have vibrations the car or the elastic of the mount be more elastic and now the vibrations is more softer.
I am happy.

I increase the throtle to 1.200 and now its more stable the vibration.
I uncrew nut in the cable in the engine that its in throttle.

Hello after the installation of a new 3 engines mount(not original one but "kavo" brant)in auto transmition cuore L701when the engine is cold has a lot of vibrations in idle with D selected in road its ok.
When the engines hot the vibration minimizes.
What to do to reduce the vibrations especialy in steering wheel and dashbord

Loosen the screws, start engine, shake it in a position that reduce the vibrations, fasten the screws. That's the way to find the exact mouniting position. If it doesn't work, the new rubber isn't soft enough. That varies by the manufacturer.
Jens